Climbing Incident Highlights Critical Turning Points
An avoidable near-miss climbing incident at Bullock Creek in Paparoa National Park was a wake-up call for one of the three climbers, prompting them to reflect on the day and identify five lost opportunities that would have resulted in a better outcome. The climber shares their thoughts here, in the hope that others will learn from the experience.*
The Outing
The group – Alex, Brook and Charlie – left Greymouth, heading for Bullock Creek/Punungairo on a mid-week trip. They had got together after their club’s climbing wall was closed at short notice and a call went out on the club’s Facebook group for anyone keen on a day out.
There was a range of indoor and outdoor climbing experience within the group, from a few years, learning mostly from friends and climbing partners, to 25 years of competition sport and international big wall expedition climbing. Alex and Brook knew each other and had previously climbed indoors together, and they both knew Charlie from the club and climbing wall. Alex, the trip co-ordinator and most experienced of the group, was familiar with the Bullock Creek area, while Brook and Charlie hadn’t been there before.
During the trip organisation and travel to the climbing spot, the group briefly discussed their climbing experience and level, and they all reviewed the guidebook for the area.
When they arrived at the base of the crag, it was decided that Brook would lead the first pitch, with Charlie second and Alex following and continuing on to lead the second pitch (When You See a Chance, grade 15, 18) up to Gumboot Ledge.
Once they’d assembled at the west end of Gumboot Ledge, they developed a plan for the next steps. Charlie opted to lead and climb either Blistering Barnacles (17) or Plan B (19), deciding on which one at the point where they diverged. Brook began a discussion about technique and equipment to belay from the top of the pitch. Charlie had a standard (non-Guide) ATC, and Brook questioned whether this was appropriate for belaying from the top, asking if Charlie was comfortable with it. The discussion was cut short, however, when Alex joined in, saying the equipment they were using was sufficient, so the conversation went no further.
Charlie led Blistering Barnacles (17) and set up an anchor at the top, fixing the non-Guide ATC directly to the master point of the anchor. This setup added no friction to the rope, functioning as a simple redirect. At this point, Charlie expressed uncertainty about the setup, but once again these concerns went no further.
Brook seconded the pitch without incident but at the anchor noticed that the configuration was not what had been discussed, but was not immediately able to identify the error and, therefore, didn’t raise it as a problem.
Alex began the pitch, and having climbed it before, decided to go off route to investigate a new line, announcing to the others that this would increase the likelihood of a fall. At around 7 metres into the pitch, Alex did in fact fall. While the rope tightened, the incorrect anchor setup meant there was not enough friction to stop the fall quickly, and Alex gained speed rapidly over 3 or 4 metres before landing, feet first on a bulge. Fortunately, Charlie was just able to maintain a hold on the brake strand of the rope to stop Alex falling further. Apart from a significant rope burn to Charlie’s hand, there were no other injuries. It was a lucky escape.
From the bulge, Alex had a clear view of the top anchor and could see the error in the setup. Brook intervened and reconfigured the belay to use an ATC Guide, and Alex completed the climb safely.
At the top of the climb, the group completed a hot-debrief of the incident.
Time for Reflection
Opportunity 1
Reflection
There was no in-depth discussion about the objective of the trip or the multi-pitch nature of the climbing at Bullock Creek, partly due to assumptions made by Alex, who was familiar with the area.
Key lesson: Make a plan
Sharing a clear plan and details about the technical nature of a route and objective of the trip provides an opportunity for group members to identify knowledge gaps, understand strengths and weaknesses, and clarify roles within the group.
Opportunity 2
Reflection
There was no detailed discussion about the skills and knowledge needed for the trip, and the capabilities of individuals. While an effort was made to establish everyone’s experience, this wasn’t done effectively
Key lesson: Get the skills
Establishing everyone’s skills, knowledge and capabilities enables individuals to identify any gaps they have and get the training they need before the trip. There is an opportunity for clubs to provide training for climbers embarking on multi-pitch outings for the first time. However, if a club does not provide this experience and climbers don’t have the skills, it’s up to individuals to seek out instructors or courses to get hands-on experience before joining a trip.
Opportunity 3
Reflection
The discussion between Brook and Charlie about whether a standard (non-Guide) ATC was appropriate for belaying from the top was an opportunity for establishing the correct technique and equipment for a safe top belay. Between Alex and Brook, there were two ATC-Guide devices and a Petzl Gri Gri available – more than sufficient for one device to be used at the top of the pitch led by Charlie, without compromising the group’s safety or function. However, the discussion was curtailed by Alex interrupting that a safe belay was possible with the equipment Charlie had available.
Key lesson: Foster open communication
Give everyone the opportunity to be heard. Interrupting a conversation about safety can disrupt the flow of key information, and dominating the conversation can reduce opportunities for other group members to speak up. Be aware of group and gender dynamics in discussions, and make sure everyone has a chance to have their say and ask questions, no matter what their level of experience. Having a supportive group environment allows everyone to feel comfortable about raising any concerns so these can be dealt with properly.
Opportunity 4
Reflection
Charlie was uncertain that their belay technique was correct, but did not ask for confirmation or a review of the setup from the rest of the group.
Key lesson: Check, check, check
Self-checking and a careful peer review of a setup is essential. When any group member leaves one safety system, a methodical checking of the new safety system while under load is an essential step (i.e., the ‘top to bottom check’). This must occur while ‘safe’, before committing to this new system.
Opportunity 5
Reflection
Brook was uneasy about the technique that had been used, but waited to say anything until it was was too late. Raising this concern sooner may have initiated a collaborative review of the setup, highlighting the error.
Key lesson: Speak up
It’s important to raise concerns immediately, even if you’re unable to identify what the specific issue is or how serious it is. There is no harm in an additional check or conversation.
*The story is written in the third person with assumed names to maintain anonymity of all the climbers.
PHOTO: Bullock Creek climbing area in Paparoa National Park
Incorrect top rope belay set up used in this incident
ATC Guide in Guide Mode (Direct Belay)
Non-Guide ATC (redirected belay)
Non-guide ATC with brake strand redirect (lowering only)